Saturday, January 25, 2014

Current Time In India? It's Kerala Time, My Friends!

By Mitchell Jones


There are a lot of people traveling to India these days. Some are ex-pats looking to reconnect with the homeland. Others are a vast range of tourists and adventures with a host of ideas of what would be the perfect Indian getaway. Whatever your motivation, you probably want to know where the action is. I'm here to tell you.

Hands down, my friend (as they say in India), you have to get to Kerala. The heydays of Katmandu and Goa have come and gone. Unless you want to be a trophy of irony, forget them. Mumbai and Delhi are certainly happening, but the breakneck hectic surge of humanity is a bit much for many

If you're looking for an India stay that provides the best of what the country has to offer, at a relaxed pace, surrounded by natural beauty and vibrant culture, for you, the current time in India is Kerala time! Located in a long stretch at the south-western corner of the country (if you can picture Chile in South America, you can roughly picture where Kerala is in India), it has everything you could want for a vacation or extended stay.

For instance, consider these great options:

Kochi, the commercial center of Kerala is sometimes still identified on older maps as Cochin. This town is as happening as it is stunning. It straddles one of Kerala's famous backwater regions. The town is spread out over the northern end of a peninsula, several islands and the adjacent mainland. Low seating ferries crisscross Kochi's impressive natural harbor. And, I can report from personal experience, that on occasion dolphins swim alongside so close that you can literally reach out and touch.

The built environment also nicely complements the natural setting. Kochi has a history of diverse colonization, including a century and a half under the Portuguese. Whatever you think of colonialism in principle, this rich experience of cultural crossroads has left the city with a pretty amazing architectural legacy.

Don't get lulled into complacency by the idyllic natural and architectural beauty, though. Kochi can rock its way into your heart, too. Its thriving nightlife provides an impressive spectrum of fine restaurants, offering up culinary delights from all over India. International food options are also well represented. Following a night out for dinner, you can kick back in any of a diverse number of cafes (south Indian coffee is great!), or if looking for something more energetic, there are a good assortment of discos and pubs to party on into the wee hours.

And when you've had enough of the big city action and want to get away to more subdued settings, Kerala fills that need just as well. For those who want to be on the move, we recommend exploring the backwaters. They are composed of lagoons and lakes parallel to what used to be known more exotically as the Malabar Coast. These lakes and lagoons are linked by a network of canals and rivers.

While there is so much to explore here we'll quickly mention just two options. The center of all this is the Alappuzha (still sometime referred to as Alleppey) district. The main town of the backwaters, it is sometimes called the Venice of the East because of all the canals running through the town. It was one of the great trading centers of the area and remains a vibrant and fascinating location to visit.

Another popular backwaters experience is booking passage on one of the over 2000 kettuvallams, or Kerala houseboats, that ply the backwaters. Historically these boats were commissioned as grain barges. In recent years, there has been a very successful, popular and, for the locals, lucrative trend to convert them into floating cottages. Thatched roofs enclose cozy sleeping quarters. There will be an inboard toilet and an outdoor deck area. This latter is perfect for taking in the scenery, watching the sunset, relaxing under the full moon and enjoying the Kerala-style meals prepared by the crew.

If, though, even that's too hectic a pace for you; all you really want is to stretch out on the sand, suck on a refreshing beverage and read a good book, Kerala has that covered, too. There are a number of options, but we will only mention one here - and a total gem it is. Varkala is the lounger's paradise. However, despite this totally chilled atmosphere, it has the additional benefit of being largely free of the Western hippies and raver kids so prevalent in similar spots along the Malabar coast.

The lush tropical coastline and exquisite beach is punctuated by the geologically unique cliffs around which the seaside village is located. There is a series of small shops - stretching over a kilometer - that run along the top edge of the cliffs. There are so many lovely places to simultaneously feed the palate, the eyes and the soul, that this is a location that has to be seen to be believed. (To get some fleeting sense of the delights, check out the video at our post: The Current Time in India is Varkala Time!)

And, if you're such a hard sell that even paradise itself isn't enough to move you, Varkala offers the additional perk of a 2000 year old temple, which is an important Vaishnavaite shrine. It is too a hotbed of Ayurvedic medicine. Heck, it even has an Ayurvedic hospital. What more could you want?

There are international flights into Kochi and the Kerala capital city of Thiruvananthapuram (about 32 miles, or 50 km) from Varkala. But, if you really want to make an adventure of it and have time on your side, we strongly recommend flying into the even better served Mumbai airport. And, after the requisite visit to Bollywood, hop on the astounding Konkan railway down the west coast. When I first started going to India in the 1970s this train didn't exist. What a great benefit and blessing it has been since 1998.

However you choose to get there, though, just get there. Nothing lasts forever. And Kerala is in all its glory. The current time in India is, indeed, Kerala time!




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